Appetites

MUSHROOM SAUTÉED WITH SHALLOTS

Because they are so full of moisture, screaming high heat is essential here for getting your mushrooms to brown, and not steam, in the pan, so really preheat the pan before adding them. Use only the small amount of oil called for here, and do not overload the pan. You are sautéing, not poaching. Do not screw this up with any of these common—but entirely avoidable—mistakes.

Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish
1 tablespoon canola or grapeseed oil
1 pound mushrooms, any variety, thinly sliced
4 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
¼ cup finely chopped fresh parsley
In a large, heavy-bottom sauté pan, heat the oil over high heat until it shimmers and just begins to smoke. Add the mushrooms and cook over high heat, tossing and stirring frequently with a wooden spoon or spatula, until the mushrooms become browned at the edges, and fragrant, about 4 minutes. The mushrooms should make a squeaking noise as they move across the pan.
Add the shallots and season with salt and pepper. Adding salt will cause the mushrooms to release their juices. Continue to cook over high heat until the juices have been sizzled away. Once the mushrooms are well browned and tender, add the butter, toss well to coat, then add the parsley. Remove from the heat and serve at once.

BAGNA CÀUDA WITH CRUDITÉS

Tomato soup remains the taste of comfort, security, and recently dried tears. It should make you feel better. It should not wander too far from the stuff that comes in a can. It should be served with Saltine crackers or oysterettes.

POTATO SALAD

This is a straight-ahead potato salad, with hard-cooked eggs replaced by bacon. Use good potatoes, don’t overcook them, make your own mayonnaise, get the high-end thick-cut bacon (Nueske’s, Snake River Farms, Benton’s Country Hams, and Zingerman’s all have excellent offerings on the web, or seek out the pork guy at your local farmer’s market), and pay attention to the seasoning.

Makes about 2 quarts, to serve 8 to 12

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes (about 6 or 7 large potatoes), peeled and cut into ¾-inch dice

1 tablespoon white vinegar

1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

6 ounces thick-cut bacon

1 cup Mayonnaise or store-bought mayonnaise

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 small red onion, finely diced (about ⅓ cup)

1 rib celery, finely diced

10 to 12 cornichons, finely chopped

¼ cup attractive celery leaves, for garnish (optional)

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Plate lined with newspaper

Place the potatoes in a medium, heavy-bottom pot and cover by 1 inch with cold water. Add the white vinegar and 1 tablespoon salt, stir lightly, and bring to a boil. Cook for about 10 minutes, until the potatoes are cooked through, then remove from heat, drain, and arrange in a single layer on a sheet pan to cool.

Meanwhile, cook the bacon in a skillet until crisp. Remove from the skillet and drain on the plate lined with newspaper. Once cool enough to handle, cut or crumble the bacon into small pieces.

In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, red wine vinegar, mustard, and salt and pepper to taste. Add the potatoes, bacon, onion, celery, and cornichons and fold together with a spatula. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Garnish with the celery leaves, if using, and serve.

Serves 4 to 6

2 pounds best-quality ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into rough wedges

1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped

2 large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced

1 cup fresh parsley leaves, cut into chiffonade just before tossing and serving

3 basil leaves, cut into chiffonade just before tossing and serving

6 tablespoons best-quality extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

Sea salt to taste

Freshly roughly cracked black pepper to taste

Combine the tomatoes, garlic, shallots, and herbs in a salad bowl. Drizzle the oil and vinegars over the mixture and season with the salt and pepper. Use salad tongs or scrupulously clean hands to gently toss the mixture together, taking care to maintain the structural integrity of the tomatoes as much as possible. Serve immediately.

24 ounces oil-packed tuna, preferably Spanish or Italian varieties (see recipe headnote), drained

½ red onion, peeled and diced (about ½ cup)

3 ribs celery, diced (about ½ cup)

¾ cup Mayonnaise or store-bought mayonnaise

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

8 to 10 slices of white bread

4 to 6 leaves iceberg lettuce

Place the tuna in a mixing bowl, along with the onion and celery. Add the mayonnaise a little at a time, breaking up the tuna with a fork and mixing as you go—this will give you the option to dial back the mayonnaise if your preference is to go lighter (an impulse I don’t necessarily endorse but grudgingly acknowledge). Season the mixture with salt and pepper to taste and serve on bread with lettuce.